Turbulent tales in Tajikistan

• Crossing the border to a bleak looking Tajikistan Crossing the border to a bleak looking Tajikistan
• 30km on, suddenly looks a little brighter... 30km on, suddenly looks a little brighter...
• Spot the Chinese soldier (thanks John!) Spot the Chinese soldier (thanks John!)
• ...or maybe not. By Lake Karakol ...or maybe not. By Lake Karakol
• A dust devil is the only thing to follow us down this road A dust devil is the only thing to follow us down this road
• We wondered where the telegraph poles went too We wondered where the telegraph poles went too
• Approaching Murghab, the regional capital Approaching Murghab, the regional capital
• Good patriotic posters Good patriotic posters
• At the money changers At the money changers
• Amazingly, there's still a Lenin statue in Murghab Amazingly, there's still a Lenin statue in Murghab
• Different CIS country, same police cars... Different CIS country, same police cars...
• Cleaning a rug - a little futile, perhaps? Cleaning a rug - a little futile, perhaps?
• Heading out of town towards Alichuur Heading out of town towards Alichuur
• The 'Stinking Lake' The 'Stinking Lake'
• No wonder this terrain can't support a population No wonder this terrain can't support a population
• Heading up another high pass Heading up another high pass
• Our kind hosts in Jelandy - Tajiks are incredibly hospitable people Our kind hosts in Jelandy - Tajiks are incredibly hospitable people
• Another grateful hitch-hiker Another grateful hitch-hiker
• Finally! Approaching Khorog, some colour... Finally! Approaching Khorog, some colour...
• ...and vegetation... ...and vegetation...
• ...and trees ...and trees
• The first car to drive the Pamir Highway The first car to drive the Pamir Highway
• A friendly Tajik girl at our guesthouse, Khorog A friendly Tajik girl at our guesthouse, Khorog
• Looking across the Panj River to Afghanistan Looking across the Panj River to Afghanistan
• Afghan road (donkey track) builders across the valley Afghan road (donkey track) builders across the valley
• The Tajik/Afghan cross border bazaar The Tajik/Afghan cross border bazaar
• Tajik lady at the bazaar Tajik lady at the bazaar
• European features, its the gold teeth that give it away European features, its the gold teeth that give it away
• Afghan traders... Afghan traders...
• ...with many different features ...with many different features
• Some old, some young Some old, some young
• Always easy to spot the Russian blood though Always easy to spot the Russian blood though
• Part of a 3rd century fort in the Wakhan Valley Part of a 3rd century fort in the Wakhan Valley
• Deep in thought, overlooking the Wakhan Valley Deep in thought, overlooking the Wakhan Valley
• Gateway to an ancient Sufi tomb Gateway to an ancient Sufi tomb
• Meanderings of the Panj River, Wakhan Valley Meanderings of the Panj River, Wakhan Valley
• The river looks bigger than it really is The river looks bigger than it really is
• A hilltip citadel A hilltip citadel
• Green slopes, but the weather's turning Green slopes, but the weather's turning
• "So we have to get the Volga started before we can carry on, right?" "So we have to get the Volga started before we can carry on, right?"
• Practising with a jezail, Vamg Practising with a jezail, Vamg
• With Aydar in his traditional Pamiri house, Vamg With Aydar in his traditional Pamiri house, Vamg
• Traditional Pamiri stove and cooking surface Traditional Pamiri stove and cooking surface
• Quite a common decoration. Amazing there are any ibex or Marco Polo sheep left Quite a common decoration. Amazing there are any ibex or Marco Polo sheep left
• Heading up to the Khargush Pass, looking over a snowy Afghanistan Heading up to the Khargush Pass, looking over a snowy Afghanistan
• With John, at Khargush - the world's most remote checkpoint? With John, at Khargush - the world's most remote checkpoint?
• Extraordinarily inhospitable Extraordinarily inhospitable
• Back on the main road - lo and behold there's a Lada Back on the main road - lo and behold there's a Lada
• Getting a lesson on the local flora Getting a lesson on the local flora
• Having a late lunch with John Having a late lunch with John
• Surprisingly sturdy footbridge over the Gunt River Surprisingly sturdy footbridge over the Gunt River
• Heading west towards Kalaikum, downstream and more colourful Heading west towards Kalaikum, downstream and more colourful
• Part of the gravity defying Afghan donkey track Part of the gravity defying Afghan donkey track
• On our side of the road, the landslide defences are barely holding up On our side of the road, the landslide defences are barely holding up
• A pretty and prosperous Afghan village A pretty and prosperous Afghan village
• All sort of hazards coming up on this road... All sort of hazards coming up on this road...
• Relic of the 1979 Russian invasion of Afghanistan Relic of the 1979 Russian invasion of Afghanistan
• There are plenty of other more dangerous relics left There are plenty of other more dangerous relics left
• Mud-brick Afghan houses Mud-brick Afghan houses
• Celebrating our engagement with Baltika "9" Celebrating our engagement with Baltika "9"
• And enjoying a brief patch of good road the next day And enjoying a brief patch of good road the next day
• Towing Aziz and his pals Towing Aziz and his pals
• And on our way to rescuing a stranded Chinese minivan in this mudslide And on our way to rescuing a stranded Chinese minivan in this mudslide
• Salvaging one of our mudflaps, and getting grubby in the process Salvaging one of our mudflaps, and getting grubby in the process
• Over lunch, with Aziz's driver Over lunch, with Aziz's driver
• Stern looking bus driver, Dushanbe Stern looking bus driver, Dushanbe
• North of Dushanbe, towards Istaravshan (we thought the worst was behind us!) North of Dushanbe, towards Istaravshan (we thought the worst was behind us!)
• Everywhere, still good old Kamaz trucks Everywhere, still good old Kamaz trucks
• Traditional blacksmiths in Istaravshan Traditional blacksmiths in Istaravshan
• Evidently a much loved Lada Evidently a much loved Lada
• Shashlik in Istaravshan's bazaar Shashlik in Istaravshan's bazaar
• Istaravshan - a busy mix of Tajiks, Uzbeks and Russians Istaravshan - a busy mix of Tajiks, Uzbeks and Russians
• The meat counter The meat counter
• Local Uzbeks chatting Local Uzbeks chatting
• Always the gold teeth! Always the gold teeth!
• Fresh Tajik bread Fresh Tajik bread
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